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Alaska: Salmonid Heaven on Raven's Island
by King MontgomeryFly Fish America, April 2006
That first evening in Alaska after a long day in airplanes, my wife and I took our places at the comfortable dinner table, and gazed down at a handwritten menu from Chef Bryan Vietmeyer below the "Welcome King & Elizabeth" note. This simple document gave us an indication of what the week ahead would bring. It said we could order Pepper Seared New York Steak with Bourbon-Molasses Jus and/or Parmesan Crusted Thorne River Coho Salmon. Dessert was Sorbet Trio in Almond Cup and/or Frangelico Chocolate Mousse. And there was a lot of other good stuff, too.
Among all the things listed, the "and/or" caught my eye, and Elizabeth and I smiled at each other. You know, I thought, if the fishing is half way decent, I'm really going to like this place.
The fishing... is some of the best in the world for steelhead and the Pacific salmons.
Earlier in the day we had taken an Alaska Airlines flight from Washington Dulles International
Airport in northern Virginia, changed planes in Seattle, Washington, and flew direct to Ketchikan,
Alaska. From there we flew in a 1950s vintage DeHavilland Beaver float plane to scenic Thorne Bay
on nearby Prince of Wales Island. After touching down lightly on the calm water, we taxied to the
floating dock where the entire staff of the Orvis-Endorsed Alaska's Boardwalk Lodge met us and
gave us a genuinely sincere welcome that still touches me even today. Strangers at first, these
folks became fast friends by week's end.But isn't Alaska a cold, frozen place for much of the year, you ask? No, southeastern Alaska — that sliver of a panhandle adjoining Canada — is part of a temperate rain forest ecosystem. Its climate is moderate and the winters aren't too severe.
Thorne Bay's town of the same name has a little less than 500 people and is located about 40 miles from Ketchikan on eastern Prince of Wales Island. The island is 140 miles long and 45 miles wide, the third largest island in the United States (Hawaii in the Hawaiian Islands and Kodiak in Alaska are larger). The fishing in the surrounding saltwater and in the many freshwater rivers and streams is some of the best in the world for steelhead and the Pacific salmons. Plus there are hunting opportunities for black bear, Sitka blacktailed deer, and numerous types of waterfowl.
The Fishing
Leave your 5- and 6-weight gear at home. If you only take one rod, make it an 8-weight nine footer. Sure, lighter gear is fun, but it can exhaust fish, and probably kills them or keeps them from spawning because of the stress induced. A 9-weight is not overdoing it, and if kings are around a 10-weight is even better.The salmon and the legendary steelhead are main draws.
The salmon and the legendary steelhead are main draws for light-tackle angling with spinning and
fly gear. All five species of Pacific salmon can be caught in the saltwater, and all run up the island's
rivers and creeks to spawn, although there aren't many kings in the freshwater. Steelhead are caught
on their spawning runs in spring and fall, with spring — generally from mid April to mid May
— being the best time for this prince of fishes.Steelhead are sea-run rainbow trout that differ from their freshwater cousins by spending part of their lives in saltwater where they feed and grow to become large and strong, reaching an average of six to 12 pounds. They migrate into their natal streams and rivers to spawn. After spawning they stay in freshwater for a while, then move back out to sea, and repeat the process in subsequent years.
King (Chinook) salmon are the largest of the five Pacific salmon that swim in North American waters. They are common up to 25 pounds, with many larger ones taken each year. They have been recorded over 100 pounds. Kings are found all year in waters around Prince of Wales Island, but they seldom swim up the island's rivers or creeks on their migrations, but the other four salmons do.
King (Chinook) salmon are the largest of the five Pacific salmon
Silver (Coho) salmon
average eight to 12 pounds, run in large pods, and are a blast to catch on light tackle. In July
and August they are the most active, although runs can continue into the fall. This fish, along
with pinks, are my favorite fly rod targets. They readily strike streamers and often take topwater
offerings, too. They're plentiful, jump and fight well, and taste good. At times I've caught so
many silvers that it was necessary to take breaks from fishing to rest a weary body.
Sockeye (red) salmon are amazing creatures and they, of all the Pacific salmon, undergo the most
pronounced morphological transformation from the sea to the spawning grounds. Bright silver and
streamlined when they enter freshwater, the males turn into bright red, humpbacked fish with
green heads; and their jaws become severely kyped, and huge, sharp teeth emerge. The females
turn red and green, but without the hump or kype in the jaw. Sockeyes, which average four to
eight pounds, usually only run up streams and rivers that have a lake at their headwaters;
their young develop and mature in those lakes.Chum (dog) salmon once had a poor reputation as a game fish, but that has changed in recent years. Caught fresh before they start deteriorating as they near the spawning areas, they are formidable quarry. They run seven to 15 pounds on average. This is the only salmon I haven't tasted, but I suspect a fresh one is pretty palatable. I'll need to do more research.
Pink (humpy) salmon are the smallest of the Pacific salmon — six or seven pounds is large — and run up rivers in thick pods. This silver fish develops a huge hump, a kyped jaw with teeth, and turns from brilliant silver to dark olive, almost black, as it approaches the time of reproduction. They are around from summer into early fall. They readily take a fly and put up a good tussle. Sometimes humpies are so thick and eager to bite one tires of catching them... if you can imagine such a thing.
All of the salmons and the steelhead like colorful streamers in pink, purple, chartreuse and bright red. But when they're biting, almost any color, shape or retrieve will do; and the bite can be fast and furious if the time is right. Floating lines or sink-tips work well, depending on conditions such as current and water depth. And all can be caught in the saltwater during spawning migrations on conventional gear, and occasionally with flies if they are found near the surface.
Other fishes available in the saltwater are huge halibut, red snapper and other Pacific rockfishes, and lingcod; these fish usually are taken on spinning and light saltwater tackle since they usually are out of range of a fly line. If you want to take fish home to the lower 48, the folks at Alaska's Boardwalk Lodge will filet, freeze and pack your catch so that may be carried home on the plane or shipped.
Fishing Logistics
If you fish out of the lodge, all fly and conventional tackle is provided, and most of it is quality Orvis gear. This includes fully-rigged rods and reels, waders and boots. Or you may, of course, bring your own stuff. The fly and gift shop has other items, including a great line of lodge-specific clothing that is functional as well as ornamental; I wore my fleece vest with the lodge's embroidered logo every day. The lodge has a small fleet of comfortable fishing boats with enclosed cabins, heaters, and a head. All the conventional and spinning gear you'll need is aboard. You just need to show up and listen to the U.S. Coast Guard licensed captain/guide. On the short trip to the fishing grounds, you'll see harbor seals, sea lions, and have a good chance of observing porpoises, Orcas and humpbacked whales. Not to mention a myriad assortment of sea birds, waterfowl, and bald eagles. Bring your camera, too!The island hosts hundreds of salmon and steelhead waters
Elizabeth and I fished the salt, but prefer to fly fish on streams and small rivers, and Prince
of Wales Island is perfect for that. The island hosts hundreds of salmon and steelhead waters,
and cutthroat and Dolly Varden are available. The island is crisscrossed with old logging and
Forest Service roads that allow access to some pretty wild places. Some trails to streams
are manicured by the Park Service, but most are black bear (there are no brown bears on
the island) and other game trails — often loaded with ripe salmonberries, thimble berries,
Russian berries and others — that are fairly easy to navigate to prime fishing spots. The
lodge guides drive comfortable Chevy Suburbans to the creeks and rivers, with drinks and
lunch on ice. It's a pretty fine way to get around.
Native Alaskans
From the earliest known times, the Tlingit people resided on Prince of Wales Island. In the 17th century, a group of Haida people migrated from Canada's Queen Charlotte Islands to the south — led by Raven it is said in the clan houses — and settled in the southern half of the island. Over the years, the two peoples interacted, intermarried, and influenced each other's traditions, spirituality, and styles of carving totem poles.The modern island, particularly in the settlement of Hydaburg, is home to many of the remaining Haida; only about 300 individuals are left in all of Alaska. There are totem parks in Kasaan, Klawock and Hydaburg, and some poles in Craig. The totem parks, along with other Native Alaskan cultural sites, are well worth a visit. The staff at Boardwalk Lodge can take you to these interesting and inspiring places if you want to take some time off from catching all those fish.
About the Author
King Montgomery tries to visit Alaska once a year to renew his acquaintance with Raven, Eagle, and Salmon—spirits who accompany him on fishing adventures.Publisher
Fly Fish America magazine is available at fly fishing shops nationwide or by subscription.
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